Monday, 21 April 2014

Why this cream is as good for you as a glass of red wine

Anti-ageing promises seem to be becoming more far-fetched each year. Products that claim to incorporate DNA from different animal kingdoms into human anti-ageing (jellyfish DNA and apple stem cells for example... and we're not kidding!), so called topical botox creams (there is a reason why botox is usually injected) and face lifting creams? The anti-ageing industry is largely characterised by some very creative marketing. 

There are however many topical anti-ageing actives with strong peer reviewed evidence for keeping the skin youthful and healthy. They may not sound as exotic as apple stem cells or jellyfish DNA, but they do have a much stronger scientific foundation. 

Resveratrol MooGoo Anti Ageing
Red wine and grapes -
excellent sources of
resveratrol

Resveratrol 

It's been said a glass of red wine a night is the secret to a long life and may prevent cancer. This is all thanks to its antioxidants, especially one in particular - resveratrol. Resveratrol is the latest breakthrough compound found in red grape skin which gives wine its deep, rich colour and exceptional antioxidant properties. Resveratrol is the reason it has become socially acceptable, if not encouraged, to treat yourself to a glass of red a night. It's also found in peanuts, dark chocolate and blueberries. 



But resveratrol's healing benefits don't stop there. University studies have found that topically, resveratrol is an incredibly strong antioxidant that helps maintain youthful skin. In fact, topical resveratrol (i.e. applied to the skin) may be one of the best methods of gaining the therapeutic effects of this antioxidant (read more on this here). 

Dietary benefits of resveratrol include: 
  • Cancer prevention. According to this 2009 US study, resveratrol helps fight the three stages of carcinogenesis (the development of cancer). 
  • It is a cardioprotective which means it helps protect the heart, as found in this 2006 study
  • It helps prevent Alzheimer's disease, Parkinson's disease and other neurological disorders, as discussed in this Australian study.  

Topical (and dietary) resveratrol is also excellent for anti-ageing: 
  • It helps protect against UV damage, a leading cause of ageing. You can read more here
  • It helps slow the ageing process. It has been found that resveratrol stimulates a group of enzymes called sirtuins whose job is to control several processes that cause ageing. 
  • It increases mitochondrial function (dubbed the 'powerhouse of the cell' the mitochondria is responsible for producing the cell's energy) according to this Australian study. As you can imagine, the more energy a cell has, the healthier and longer it will survive. 
  • It acts as an anti-inflammatory as explained in this 2010 study. Inflammation is the body's response to irritants, damaged cells or pathogens and can lead to ageing of the skin. 
  • It is an exceptional antioxidant as seen in this study. You know how freshly cut apples turn brown pretty quickly? That's oxidisation. The same thing happens to our skin which causes ageing. This is why it is very important to use antioxidants (both topically and in your diet) to mop up the harmful, unwanted oxygen molecules that cause skin oxidisation. 
Skin oxidisation
Apple oxidisation

Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate ("Super Vitamin C")

Another great natural antioxidant is ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate (a type of oil soluble vitamin C). This is the best and most expensive form of the vitamin C antioxidant available. Here's a summary on all its benefits which you can read in more detail here
Vitamin C MooGoo Anti Ageing
Dietary sources of vitamin C

  • It encourages cell growth or proliferation 
  • It promotes collagen synthesis
  • It prevents skin oxidisation 
  • It prevents skin cell damage 
  • It protects the skin from UVA and UVB damage 
  • It helps the appearance of pigmentation 



Something to keep in mind when picking anti-ageing products... To protect the skin, there is a layer of sebum (oil) that acts like a shield. It blocks most things from reaching the skin and it also prevents your body from losing too much water. Topical antioxidants won't do much good if they can't get through the skin's sebum. 

Because of the countless benefits of these two powerful antioxidants, we have used them in their full concentration in our Anti-Ageing Face Cream. Afterall, we believe moist, supple skin that is nourished with antioxidants and vitamins is much healthier than skin subjected to acids, temporary plumping agents, chemical line fillers or another animal's DNA. Our Anti-Ageing Face Cream is designed to maintain youthful skin by keeping the skin in a healthy state rather than short term miracles that might cause long-term damage.

Also look out for silicones in your creams. Silicones (you will see them on the label as Dimethicone or Cyclomethicone or similar) make a cream very smooth and slippery on the skin. However, it also forms a silicone barrier, preventing any antioxidants within the cream from reaching the skin and so these are essentially wasted. That is why we do not use silicones in any of our products (silicones also make the hair smooth and slippery, but soon build up on the scalp making the hair lank.)


Botox Creams? 
Some anti-ageing creams make claim that they will offer the same effects as a botox injection. For this to happen, the ingredients would need to reach the muscles. Hmmm, we aren't too convinced...

MooGoo Anti Ageing Skin Layers
Skin layers
The skin is designed to keep things OUT of the body. It is your body's shield. For a topical botox cream to work, it would firstly need to make it through the skin's sebum. After that it would need to travel through several skin layers and subcutaneous fat before it can reach the muscle (see diagram on the right.) 
Topical creams will usually only get to the very top later of the skin (if it contains oil soluble ingredients) but won't make it any further so don't believe the hype behind such products. This is the very reason why botox is injected into the skin, not applied topically. 


2014's Anti-Ageing Trends

We couldn't help ourselves but have a little laugh after reading some of the supposed anti-ageing beauty trends to watch out for this year. Our favourites were...
  • Jellyfish DNA which involves lathering on the DNA of a jellyfish that never ages (no matter how much jellyfish DNA used doesn't mean our human DNA will suddenly morph with it.)
  • Bee venom, dubbed the 'ultimate natural alternative to botox' which will apparently 'revive the look of mature and stressed skin'. Once again, topical creams can't reach the muscles and so we're still wondering how this works exactly. 
It is important to look a little deeper into what you're using for your skin to avoid long term damage or wasting money on false promises. We urge everyone to check the evidence behind ingredients on Google Scholar instead of basing decisions on the marketing. There is no requirement for companies to back up claims made about products so the world is really their oyster. 

Do you have any credible anti-ageing tips or know of some excellent antioxidants? What is the most far-fetched anti-ageing tip you've heard? Let us know in the comments below. :)

6 comments:

  1. I am pleased I've discovered your products, especially this one which looks amazing. Look forward to trying them. I do like to do research first hence coming to this blog. However can you back up your statement on Silicones. My understanding is that they can act as a carrier to deliver other ingredients that are meant to be absorbed by the skin. Now it is fine that your products don't have them, as it is always good to have options however products that do have them aren't necessarily a waste of time in terms of antioxidants. Silicones for hair though seems to be a different matter.

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    2. Thanks for the comment. Silicone technology has progressed in the last decade or so making some types of silicone more breathable. They can also be used to help disperse actives within a formulation. However silicones don’t (to our knowledge) help with delivery. Silicones are still primarily designed to stay on top of the skin to give a feel of slip, or of shine, or for film forming in the case of sunscreens and cover creams. They do not enhance penetration of actives. Mostly it is still cylcomethicone and dimethicone that are used, and these are primarily for inexpensive skin feel. However in formulation there are always differences of opinion and if you read of something else please share it with us :)

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    3. Thank you for your reply and explanation. I guess my view is that it isn't so cut and dry, that there are grey areas, like with many things regarding scientific studies. I may have been thinking that the dispersing of actives was the same as delivery in what I had read. So it may come down to being formulated correctly and better technology and advancement in the area as you say. However they are probably not necessary, just not all bad :)

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